1959 Tank Louis Paris EWC 18k Gold

The Tank has remained Cartier’s signature creation since its inception, evolving through numerous variations while maintaining its status as the quintessential ultra-thin dress watch with the classic Cartier dial. This particular example, dating to 1959 and produced in Paris, stands out as an unusual survivor from the period.

During this era, Jaeger, the French watchmaker renowned for its expertise in ultra-thin movements, maintained a long-standing collaboration with Louis Cartier, the visionary jeweler behind the Tank’s innovative design language. This Tank Louis Cartier bears the “EJ” maker’s mark associated with Jaeger alongside the French eagle’s head assay mark, both crisp and clearly visible. It is powered by a European Watch and Clock Co. caliber 168 manual-wind movement with 18 jewels.

Notably, this variant features an original hexagonal sapphire cabochon crown, an uncommon and particularly desirable detail among Tanks of the era. The dial was professionally refinished at some point in its life, while the original blued-steel hands remain intact. The acrylic crystal is a later, non-original replacement and is currently improperly fitted.

The caseback is engraved, and the watch is paired with a black leather strap and a later Cartier 18k yellow gold deployant clasp dating from the 1980s. Despite these honest modifications, this remains a compelling mid-century Paris Tank with wonderful period details and a great deal of character.