BRAND: Cartier
MODEL: Tank Louis
CASE MATERIAL: 18k yellow gold
CASE MEASURES: 21 x 27 mm
MOVEMENT: Manual
FUNCTIONS: Time
CONDITION: Rare
The Tank has remained Cartier’s signature creation since its inception, evolving through numerous variations while maintaining its status as the quintessential ultra-thin dress watch with the classic Cartier dial. This particular example, dating to 1959, and produced in Paris, stands out as a true rarity in today’s market. During this period, Jaeger, the French watchmaker renowned for its expertise in ultra-thin movements, maintained a long-standing collaboration with Louis Cartier, the visionary jeweler behind the Tank’s innovative design language. This present Tank Louis Cartier bears the “EJ” hallmark, denoting Jaeger’s craftsmanship, alongside the French eagle head assay mark—both crisp and clearly visible. The movement features a higher jewel count, typical of Jaeger’s refined calibers of the era, and is running strong, attesting to its well-preserved mechanical integrity.
Notably, this variant features a hexagonal sapphire cabochon crown, an uncommon and desirable detail among Tanks of the era. The dial has been professionally refinished at some point in its life, while the original blued-steel hands remain intact. The crystal, currently a non-original acrylic replacement, would benefit from being properly refitted or replaced. It is paired with a black leather strap and a later 1980s Cartier 18k yellow gold deployant buckle. Despite its honest modifications, this rare mid-century Tank remains a compelling and collectible example of Cartier’s enduring design mastery.
Original hands and hexagon sapphire cabochon crown.
Old refinished dial. Caseback engraved.
Acrylic has been replaced at some point, improperly fitted.
6 mm thick case.
Hallmarks : eagle head and EJ (Jaeger).
European Watch and Clock Co. caliber 168, 18 jewels manual movement.
424xx 5451xx
Non-Cartier black leather strap, 80% condition approximate. Fits 6.5 inches.
Later Cartier 18k deployment clasp (from the 1980s).
15 mm lug width.
Modelled on 6 inch wrist.
ID 306593054428